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Do you have to remove the belly pan to remove the oil filter? Ive never had a crush washer leak in 40+ years of changing my own oil in no less then 30 cars.



It is easier to use an extractor and suck it out the dipstick. It gets 99% as much out as pulling the drain plug. This is how all the VW/Audi/Porsche dealerships do it. It does take about 10 or 15 minutes for the extractor to remove all the oil. I use the Mityvac extractor.no air compressor needed (it has a built in hand pump...about 10 or 15 pumps and you can walk away as the oil gets sucked out, thru the dipstick tube.

To pull the drain plug, you need to pull the black plastic bellypan off first, which is about 10 or 12 fasteners. If you don't have a lift, removing and re-installing the bellypan is a pain, due to the limited working room with car-ramps. You need to use a new crush washer, make sure you get the aluminum version, not the copper version. Check for leaks after refill, after a few minutes. These drain plugs and crush washers are finicky (another reason to use the extractor).

When you remove the filter, loosen it about 5 turns, and let it sit for about 5 minutes to allow the oil to drain out. (When it is loosened a few turns, a drain port opens and allows the oil to drain into the oilpan.) Then you can remove it without making a mess.

Refill takes 4.8 to 4.9 quarts. Always use an oil that meets the VW/Audi spec called out in your owners manual. Most commonly available oils do NOT meet this spec. I use Mobil-1 0W-40 "European Formula", easily found at Walmart in 5 qt jugs. Walmart also carries Castrol Edge (5W-40 I think), one version which also meets the VW spec, read the bottle. Always use genuine VW/Audi oil filters, or the same ones sold under the OEM manufacturer, made by Mahle or Mann.

I suggest changing your oil and filter every 5000 miles max. Change the automatic transmission fluid and filter, and the rear diff gear oil, and the Haldex fluid & filter every 40,000 miles.

The first gen (PQ35) VW Tiguan forums are full of usefull info. The Q3 and the Gen-1 Tiguan share the same exact engine, transmission, rear diff/Haldex all-wheel-drive system, steering and suspension (other than shock and spring rates, and the Q3 has aluminum front control arms, the Tigs are steel). The unibody chassis are similar, but the Q3 has structural enhancements which improved its small-offset crash test performance. The Q3 also has an aluminum hood and rear tailgate, the Tig is all steel.
 

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No need to remove the belly-pan,the oil filter is on the top of the 2.0 engine..."upside-down"...hence the drain-port valve feature.
And for some reason, the VW/Audi crush washers/drain plug has an unusual tendency to leak...somehow they are finicky....trust me.
 

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No need to remove the belly-pan,the oil filter is on the top of the 2.0 engine..."upside-down"...hence the drain-port valve feature.
And for some reason, the VW/Audi crush washers/drain plug has an unusual tendency to leak...somehow they are finicky....trust me.

ok thanks for the info..
 

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I agree, topside oil changes are the way to go, I happen to have a Schwaben, but any brand will work just get the tube all the way down. You don't even need to wash your hands after you get done the work it is so clean. I also use it to suck the oil of of the old filter and the oil that is in the galleys under the filter on the motor.
 

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I just got done doing the first oil change at 5700 miles. Easy piezy and you don't need to spend $ for a vac pump. Remove the belly pan (5 mins) and drain oil. remove engine cover and remove oil filter(5 minutes) and install new Purolator oil filter. The drain plug crush gasket does not need to be changed and does not leak at all when reinstalling. In all a easy job and only costs $27 for oil and $10 for the filter. Both at Wal Mart. Castrol 0W-40 and Purolator oil filter
 

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You should stick with the OEM filter, made by Mann or Hengst. You can but at VW dealer or Amazon.
Mann-Filter part number = W 719/45
Hengst part number = H14W30
VW part number = 06J 115 403Q = 06J 115 561B
Make sure the oil you use states on the bottle, that it meets the VW 502 specification.
 

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You should stick with the OEM filter, made by Mann or Hengst. You can but at VW dealer or Amazon.
Mann-Filter part number = W 719/45
Hengst part number = H14W30
VW part number = 06J 115 403Q = 06J 115 561B
Make sure the oil you use states on the bottle, that it meets the VW 502 specification.

The purolatorfilter is made by the oem. Made in Germany and EXACTLY the same as the oem filter. Get it locally for a fair price. The oil you get from Walmart is the correct oil for a lot less too. Best part is I did the oil change for 1/4 the cost the Audi dealer wants



https://www.castrol.com/en_gb/united-kingdom/car-engine-oil/engine-oil-viscosity/0w-40.html


https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-1&q=purolator+L35895
 

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The original VW branded (or Mann or Hengst) filter can be bought for $12 to $13.
I thought I saw a "Made In Mexico" on the Purolator filter.....
 

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Anyone know if the OEM drain plug that Audi Parts sell directly comes with the crush washer? I don't see the crush washer in any of the part diagrams.
 

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Anyone know if the OEM drain plug that Audi Parts sell directly comes with the crush washer? I don't see the crush washer in any of the part diagrams.
Nevermind. Looked at some old service receipts and they show a washer. Part N-013-849-3
 

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... You don't need a new crush washer. The old one will work fine.
That's just not true in general. The purpose of crushing is so the metal flexes to seal any irregular surface features. You may get by reusing an old or or it may leak. If you want to reuse a metal crush washer, put a heat gun on it for a bit to relax the metal so it will crush and form again. Or buy a lifetime supply of crush washers for $10 and have "peace of mind." :)
 
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