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Discussion Starter #1
Guys, looking for some help and input here.

About a week ago I got an engine check light on and the Start/Stop stopped working.

I took the Q3 to the dealership and they told me it was a gas return valve.

They took care of it under warranty and in under 30 minutes.

All was good, but, then it happened...

At red lights, idle is around 850 rpm (normal), start/stop off, foot on brake pedal.

As I take my foot off of the brake pedal to start accelerating, idle drops about 150-200 rpms and goes back up; car vibrates a bit, like it wants to stall.

Same when coming to a stop, idle comes back from accelerating, goes to 850 and drops.

I took it again and the scan showed NOTHING wrong. They even changed the valve again under warranty thinking it could be a faulty valve.

Besides those symptoms, I feel the car a bit slow.

WHat do you guys think it could be?

I'm taking the Q3 tomorrow for a thorough check, buy maybe I can give them some input if someone has had similar problems with their Q3 or other car for that matter.

Thanks!!
 

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Our jeep did something similar to this several years ago and it was the "idle speed control motor"... I don't know if its even remotely the same but we had similar issues, ours was OK when starting out but got progressively worse once the car warmed up...
Hopefully it will act up for your dealer and they can get you squared away!!!
Good Luck!!!
 
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If it's not a secondary air leak - looks like you've addressed that, I'd start looking for any simple vacuum leak somewhere - sounds exactly like the behavior associated with it - even a loose oil cap could cause enough bleed to these tight engines and cause this ...
 
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Discussion Starter #4
thanks guys!

2 days at the dealership, no leaky hoses, they've even swapped the throttle body, try to install software update, all to no avail.

I told them to remove the battery to drain all current, sometimes softwares just cycle without explanation.

I'm sad, **** monday, LOL
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
UPDATE

Q3 is doing the same. I'm starting to hate red lights because of this.

I read more about it trying to figure out what it is.

A couple of places suggested the TRANSMISSION as a possible culprit and even one person said that resetting adjustments could do the trick
Any of you have any experience regarding this?

Is it possible to change o reset these values.

Input appreciated, thanks
 

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It is possible to reset the code, but if there's no fault registered I'm not sure it would/could do any good. These transmission control units are not that sophisticated. I'm kind of surprised there are no faults though as most driveability issues would throw some. Where are you? can't tell from your profile, you say you have S/S so not in U.S. - must have DSG, - just wonder if you may have some other stuff going on? How many miles are on the car? and what year is it ?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
It is possible to reset the code, but if there's no fault registered I'm not sure it would/could do any good. These transmission control units are not that sophisticated. I'm kind of surprised there are no faults though as most driveability issues would throw some. Where are you? can't tell from your profile, you say you have S/S so not in U.S. - must have DSG, - just wonder if you may have some other stuff going on? How many miles are on the car? and what year is it ?
I'm in Monterrey, MX
35,000 miles
DSG transmission
QUATTRO
Q3 2014 2.0T 212HP

Thanks for your help. Regarding the code reset, can I just ask for it when taking the Q3 to the dealer? or is it done via VAG COM?



BTW, yesterday I disconnected the battery negative terminal for about 1hr. I don't know if it's an urban legend or not the ECU reset via no power, but I figured it wouldn't hurt.

The problem persisted, and maybe it's me but I felt it less than before. The car is a bit more responsive.
 

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The reset can be done thru VCDS or VAS and the dealer should be able to easily do this. With a DSG, I wonder if you really need a clutch adaptation - which is a specific (and somewhat PITA) procedure to align the clutch packs between non-sequential (i.e. 1&3, 2&4, 5&6) gear sets that are on the same shaft (clutch) but offset from the next gear on the other shaft(clutch). This is a tuning procedure, and us in the US (NAR) with Tiptronics have NO need for such a thing as we don't have clutch packs. This needs to be done every so often or when something has been adjusted or changed mechanically within the gearbox. Ask you dealer about a "clutch adapation" for your car - or at least have them show you where it was SUCCESSFULLY done. This can take some time (and miles) to do, so don't be surprised if they've driven your car for a few hours and perhaps 30-50 miles to really do this ...
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Problem SOLVED

The dealership made an electronic clutch adjustment and the problem lessened by 80% aprox.

I'm happy with it.

Thanks for your help.
 

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ahhhh, clutch pack adaptations - told ya ...
 
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