[Tanqueray]

Then it will shutdown either at 12V or 6 hours (configurable), whichever comes first.

This is when all the small white switches are in "down" position right?

 

[Edward]

I think we are on the same page, but I would say they are in the "off" position instead. One side of the switches are marked "On". For my current configuration, all the switches are *not* on the "On" side.

Once you got the unit, it should be very obvious to you. It also comes with a piece of paper explaining the switches.

 

[Tanqueray]

Hey Edward, is your dashcam and power magic pro "on" when you close the doors. lock up and walk away?

My dashcam and power magic pro stays on when I turn off the ignition and sit in the car but they all turn off when I exit the car and lock up the car. So I can't use my dashcam as surveillance when it's parked.

I'm tapping into "interior light" for my constant power.

Any thoughts or suggestions?

p.s. I tried to use TV tuner as my constant power tap but there was no fuse in that position and looks like the fuse holder is not connected to the battery because the add-fuse is very loose when I use that position. That's why I'm using "interior light" fuse which is position 3.

 

[Tanqueray]

So I just switched constant wire from interior light (position 3) to keyless entry (position 8). Now parking mode works!

Here are some important/useful tips on installing a dashcam through hardwire kits.

1. Connect constant power wire to keyless entry fuse (DO NOT use interior light because although fuse checking tool shows it remains to get power even after ignition has been off for awhile, the fuse no longer receives power after the door is locked from outside)
2. Turn on "external power supply" on Blacksys or other dashcam app.
3. Set "time until park mode" for 5 minutes or more on Blacksys other dashcam app.
4. Connect ground wire to a metal bolt (first time, I used a bolt right next to fuse box but that was not a ground and the dashcam refused to be powered through hard wire kit)

I hope this and Edward's DIY write-up helps.

 

[rnlabas]

You're right, the interior light power is only on for a "convenience" time after you exit the car (and perhaps 15-20 minutes if you don't - same as radio), so your new tap is a prolly good one, although hope that between the original line and your new tap, the supply wire is big enough for both. What I would be thinking here is if the original line has say a 1 amp fuse in it and your new tap upstream of it has a 2-3 amp fuse, then the original wire needs to carry up to 3-4 amps and may simply be too small for this continuously and could melt/catch fire...

I'd feel much better if you tap your new line into a line that already carries a larger fuse than your new one by at least 200% - So, say the tap line (to the camera) has a 1a fuse in it, I'd only want to tap it into an original line that has say a 2a or greater fuse going to wherever ...

 

[Tanqueray]

You're right, the interior light power is only on for a "convenience" time after you exit the car (and perhaps 15-20 minutes if you don't - same as radio), so your new tap is a prolly good one, although hope that between the original line and your new tap, the supply wire is big enough for both. What I would be thinking here is if the original line has say a 1 amp fuse in it and your new tap upstream of it has a 2-3 amp fuse, then the original wire needs to carry up to 3-4 amps and may simply be too small for this continuously and could melt/catch fire...

I'd feel much better if you tap your new line into a line that already carries a larger fuse than your new one by at least 200% - So, say the tap line (to the camera) has a 1a fuse in it, I'd only want to tap it into an original line that has say a 2a or greater fuse going to wherever ...

I'm not sure if I follow you Roger. So, previously, "interior light" position had 5 amp fuse in it and where I'm tapping into now "keyless entry" has 7.5 amp fuse in it. I'm using add-a-fuse wire from autozone.

Are you saying that "keyless entry" position may experience too much amp drawn due to the dashcam and may cause melt/fire?

 

[Edward]

Probably due to MY and/or package differences, yours didn't have the TV Tuner fuse and mine didn't have the Interior Light fuse at position #3 (probably name differently under another position). Anyways, glad that it's all working for you now!

Good point regarding the wire gauge Roger. I didn't measure the current, but from my educated guess it shouldn't draw more than 1A at the fuse box (at least for my specific dashcam). I am currently tapping into the 5A slots.

 

[Tanqueray]

Probably due to MY and/or package differences, yours didn't have the TV Tuner fuse and mine didn't have the Interior Light fuse at position #3 (probably name differently under another position). Anyways, glad that it's all working for you now!

Good point regarding the wire gauge Roger. I didn't measure the current, but from my educated guess it shouldn't draw more than 1A at the fuse box (at least for my specific dashcam). I am currently tapping into the 5A slots.

I looked into this through the dash cam's manufacturer's website and I found that my particular dashcam draws 0.38A. Also the Bussman add-a-fuse wire is rated up to 10A.

Am I safe to think this is all good?

 

[Edward]

I think you are good, especially it's only 0.38A.

Roger reminded us to be careful when picking which fuse slot to tap into. In general, lower Amp rating will have thinner wires. Let's say the existing slot is rated 1A (and assuming it's actually drawing close to 1A) and if the new dash cam circuit is drawing additional 1A, then effectively the existing wire (in the fuse box) is now carrying 100% extra load, which may cause the wire to heat up.

Roger is suggesting us to tap into a higher Amp rating slot if possible, so that the extra load won't heat up the wire as easily. But since it's only 0.38A, I would say even the 5A slot is safe enough.

 

[rnlabas]

I think you are good, especially it's only 0.38A.

Roger reminded us to be careful when picking which fuse slot to tap into. In general, lower Amp rating will have thinner wires. Let's say the existing slot is rated 1A (and assuming it's actually drawing close to 1A) and if the new dash cam circuit is drawing additional 1A, then effectively the existing wire (in the fuse box) is now carrying 100% extra load, which may cause the wire to heat up.

Roger is suggesting us to tap into a higher Amp rating slot if possible, so that the extra load won't heat up the wire as easily. But since it's only 0.38A, I would say even the 5A slot is safe enough.

Thanks and you're right - I might drop the fuse in the add-a-fuse wire down to 1a then (to the camera), since the normal load is so low. I wouldn't want a short to try and draw the full 7.5a while the fuse holds but the wires don't ...

 

[steverino]

I too have a dash cam and wondered if there was anything I need to know about running the cables.
Is it straightforward enough to run them under the headlining, what about the A-pillar?

looking to uncover any 'gotchas' before I start

Thanks

 

[rnlabas]

First, welcome to the forum - second, it looks like you're already seeking knowledge from here - a good thing - and lastly I hope you find what you want. Hope you've read the install notes here and can get some insight towards your work. Please follow-up with pics and notes of your own. We all want to learn from each other -

 

[Tanqueray]

I too have a dash cam and wondered if there was anything I need to know about running the cables.
Is it straightforward enough to run them under the headlining, what about the A-pillar?

looking to uncover any 'gotchas' before I start

Thanks

Cables fit under the headliner and A pillar very nicely using a plastic pry tool. There is no need to remove or even pry up anything to fit the cables. You simply need to give the cable a good push with the round edge of the pry tool. When you are running the cable down the A pillar, push the cable under the black weather strip.

As for hardwiring the dashcam, DO NOT use interior light fuse because the power to this fuse shuts off once you lock the vehicle. So this is NOT CONSTANT power.

Good luck!

 

[rnlabas]

THANKS ! Tanqueray ...

 

[steverino]

Thanks Tanqueray.
That is indeed good news, I had visions of disassembling the vehicle to achieve a nice finish.

Thanks for the welcome Roger.
I will endeavour to take some piccies along the way

 

[chachacha]

Hot Fuses

I need to hard wire a dash cam and was wondering which would be a good hot fuse to plug into other than the keyless entry? I plan to use the interior lighting fuse as the accessory.

 

[vancilwa]

Dude, this is risky, please go for mechanic or electrician.
Your life is important then that dash cam wiring!

 

[rmaccara]

Dude, this is risky, please go for mechanic or electrician.
Your life is important then that dash cam wiring!

Seriously? What makes you think that following directions given here are not good enough?

 

[rnlabas]

Oh my !

 

[S4'ed]

https://rsnav.com/products/hidden-dash-camera-for-audi

This is the slickest dash cam solution....looks OEM..