Have 5 liters (not quarts) on hand, maybe even a 6th one for good measure. You'll need almost the 5 when you change everything. Start your refill at 4.5 liters and check from there. You may end up at 4.6 - 4.7. DO NOT over fill it. Audi (as is MOST these days) shop practice is to SUCK the oil out through the dipstick tube and NEVER touch the drain plug. If you do drain it, you WILL need a new crushable washer - they are intended ONLY for one use. Using aftermarket filters won't save you much as the OEMs are made by the same folks anyway - although unless you get an ACNA member (you ARE a member aren't you?) discount in parts (sometimes as much as 25%) you may find them a bit cheaper on line, but not much.

 

Haha! Same problem I had this past weekend doing my wife's change.
The manual ridiculously left that out & ask us to call into their help center.
Luckily there was a nice lady manning the phones this past Saturday.

4.8 qts (~4.5L) was the answer from Audi USA - which was what I had found from googling the heck out of the term "Q3 Oil Capacity."

I actually suctioned out only about 4.6 qts (4.3L) & refilled with about that same amount & the dipstick was wet at the upper fill line.

As for the oil filter, I didn't want to drive across town to the Audi dealer to get the OEM filter & bought from Amazon the Mann 719/45 filter (Amazon fit tool is wrong on it not fitting).

That was cross referenced vs. the OEM part number from each of these sites to con firm fit:
https://www.europaparts.com/oil-filter-06j115403q.html

http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=2220246&cc=3329257&jsn=10415

http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=2264298&cc=3329257

http://catalog.mann-filter.com/NA/e...cles/CARS + TRANSPORTERS/AUDI/2016/Q3 Quattro 4 cyl. 2.0L FI Turbo CTA (T256584)

https://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-Q3-Quattro-2.0T/ES2631754/


As Roger said, you will need a new drain washer too if you do it the old fashion way as they are one & done usage.
I go from the top and have only done it that way with all my prior & current German cars.

 

Thanks guys!!!!!

 

Someone have the size for the crushable washer that the 2.0TFSI use?

 

The P/N is : N 013 815 7; it's 14x20 mm (which are inner and outer diameters) and costs USD0.84

 

Thanks a lot Roger

 

OK, now you have me curious. How do they suck the oil out of the engine?? I'm sure they don't use a Kirby Vacuum cleaner. Is there a special device for this?? Is it available to the general public and if so, how much bucks does it cost??

 

It IS a special device, uses compressed air and an aspirator to create the vacuum thru a small tube stuck down the dipstick tube. I'm sure you could buy one from a tool supplier, expect about $150 or so with a small cyclonic separator...

 

Do you think that's something we could possibly get from a tool rental place?

 

OK, so I got the oil change done and was able to reset the oil reminder but when I go in with Vag Com to try and reset the SRI it tells me that the instrument cluster uses a different kind of software and that I have to go through Adaptation 10 and look for something resembling "Reset" I found what appears to be the only thing in the list similar to that and that's pretty much where the wheels come off. I don't know where to go from there. Any help you guys can provide would be awesome. I've used the Vag Com in the past but only on VW's. I would think the Q3 wouldn't be that much different. BTW it's a 2015 Q3 Quattro and I'm using a Ross Tech Micro Can cable on Windows 8.

 

Ok - you have the right tools - so where did the "wheels come off?" You go into Control Module 17 Instruments, click on Adaptation, then in the empty Channels box - with a little down arrow on the right, click there to see all the Channel Labels - like this :

Click on the one highlighted and then the "Soft Reset" box, then Do It!

 

No actually I don't - BUT, maybe from a place like Advanced Auto Parts, Pep Boys or the like as some (not all) rent special tools and they may have one...
It's not a particularly big gadget, the catch can is usually a vertical 10 gal drum on a wheeled dolly - with the cyclonic separator and aspirator mounted on top, with a 10 ft hose and 18-24" dip tube. The aspirator usually has an air chuck, pressure/vacuum gage for the drum and a valve for the vacuum tube. Check these out - $10-$500

 

While I have not actually reset mine, I have faith that this IS that reset. Additionally, whilst poking about the other adaptations listed, it DOES seem easy to CHANGE various settings (mileage and time) for both oil and service intervals. However, I must also note - that while it looks like these can be changed, Audi has at other times in similar circumstances, LOCKED the values within some adaptation channels OR required additional security inputs to change or unlock them...

 

I was trying to reset my SRI on my Q3 yesterday & got the Error button mention in the instructions above wqhen using the SRI RESET button

Looks like the Ross Tech folks have confirmed what you wrote above.
This can be done on the newer VAG cars here1 & how to do it here2.

 

change your oil the correct way. Drain it from the bottom and change the filter too. You don't need a new crush washer. The old one will work fine.

 

... You don't need a new crush washer. The old one will work fine.

That's just not true in general. The purpose of crushing is so the metal flexes to seal any irregular surface features. You may get by reusing an old or or it may leak. If you want to reuse a metal crush washer, put a heat gun on it for a bit to relax the metal so it will crush and form again. Or buy a lifetime supply of crush washers for $10 and have "peace of mind."

 

It is easier to use an extractor and suck it out the dipstick. It gets 99% as much out as pulling the drain plug. This is how all the VW/Audi/Porsche dealerships do it. It does take about 10 or 15 minutes for the extractor to remove all the oil. I use the Mityvac extractor.no air compressor needed (it has a built in hand pump...about 10 or 15 pumps and you can walk away as the oil gets sucked out, thru the dipstick tube.

To pull the drain plug, you need to pull the black plastic bellypan off first, which is about 10 or 12 fasteners. If you don't have a lift, removing and re-installing the bellypan is a pain, due to the limited working room with car-ramps. You need to use a new crush washer, make sure you get the aluminum version, not the copper version. Check for leaks after refill, after a few minutes. These drain plugs and crush washers are finicky (another reason to use the extractor).

When you remove the filter, loosen it about 5 turns, and let it sit for about 5 minutes to allow the oil to drain out. (When it is loosened a few turns, a drain port opens and allows the oil to drain into the oilpan.) Then you can remove it without making a mess.

Refill takes 4.8 to 4.9 quarts. Always use an oil that meets the VW/Audi spec called out in your owners manual. Most commonly available oils do NOT meet this spec. I use Mobil-1 0W-40 "European Formula", easily found at Walmart in 5 qt jugs. Walmart also carries Castrol Edge (5W-40 I think), one version which also meets the VW spec, read the bottle. Always use genuine VW/Audi oil filters, or the same ones sold under the OEM manufacturer, made by Mahle or Mann.

I suggest changing your oil and filter every 5000 miles max. Change the automatic transmission fluid and filter, and the rear diff gear oil, and the Haldex fluid & filter every 40,000 miles.

The first gen (PQ35) VW Tiguan forums are full of usefull info. The Q3 and the Gen-1 Tiguan share the same exact engine, transmission, rear diff/Haldex all-wheel-drive system, steering and suspension (other than shock and spring rates, and the Q3 has aluminum front control arms, the Tigs are steel). The unibody chassis are similar, but the Q3 has structural enhancements which improved its small-offset crash test performance. The Q3 also has an aluminum hood and rear tailgate, the Tig is all steel.

 

Do you have to remove the belly pan to remove the oil filter? Ive never had a crush washer leak in 40+ years of changing my own oil in no less then 30 cars.

It is easier to use an extractor and suck it out the dipstick. It gets 99% as much out as pulling the drain plug. This is how all the VW/Audi/Porsche dealerships do it. It does take about 10 or 15 minutes for the extractor to remove all the oil. I use the Mityvac extractor.no air compressor needed (it has a built in hand pump...about 10 or 15 pumps and you can walk away as the oil gets sucked out, thru the dipstick tube.

To pull the drain plug, you need to pull the black plastic bellypan off first, which is about 10 or 12 fasteners. If you don't have a lift, removing and re-installing the bellypan is a pain, due to the limited working room with car-ramps. You need to use a new crush washer, make sure you get the aluminum version, not the copper version. Check for leaks after refill, after a few minutes. These drain plugs and crush washers are finicky (another reason to use the extractor).

When you remove the filter, loosen it about 5 turns, and let it sit for about 5 minutes to allow the oil to drain out. (When it is loosened a few turns, a drain port opens and allows the oil to drain into the oilpan.) Then you can remove it without making a mess.

Refill takes 4.8 to 4.9 quarts. Always use an oil that meets the VW/Audi spec called out in your owners manual. Most commonly available oils do NOT meet this spec. I use Mobil-1 0W-40 "European Formula", easily found at Walmart in 5 qt jugs. Walmart also carries Castrol Edge (5W-40 I think), one version which also meets the VW spec, read the bottle. Always use genuine VW/Audi oil filters, or the same ones sold under the OEM manufacturer, made by Mahle or Mann.

I suggest changing your oil and filter every 5000 miles max. Change the automatic transmission fluid and filter, and the rear diff gear oil, and the Haldex fluid & filter every 40,000 miles.

The first gen (PQ35) VW Tiguan forums are full of usefull info. The Q3 and the Gen-1 Tiguan share the same exact engine, transmission, rear diff/Haldex all-wheel-drive system, steering and suspension (other than shock and spring rates, and the Q3 has aluminum front control arms, the Tigs are steel). The unibody chassis are similar, but the Q3 has structural enhancements which improved its small-offset crash test performance. The Q3 also has an aluminum hood and rear tailgate, the Tig is all steel.

 

No need to remove the belly-pan,the oil filter is on the top of the 2.0 engine..."upside-down"...hence the drain-port valve feature.
And for some reason, the VW/Audi crush washers/drain plug has an unusual tendency to leak...somehow they are finicky....trust me.

 

No need to remove the belly-pan,the oil filter is on the top of the 2.0 engine..."upside-down"...hence the drain-port valve feature.
And for some reason, the VW/Audi crush washers/drain plug has an unusual tendency to leak...somehow they are finicky....trust me.

ok thanks for the info..

 

List of MY 2018 Oil Capacity and Type see attached pdf.

MPG

 

Amazon has the $65 MityVac 7400 Fluid Extractor, no compressed air source needed : It has a hand pump...no big deal to pump it about 10 times....then the oil gets sucked out for about 10 minutes.

https://www.amazon.com/Mityvac-7400-Liter-Fluid-Evacuator/dp/B000JFJM14/ref=sr_1_3/136-5533489-9654463?ie=UTF8&qid=1536882096&sr=8-3&keywords=mityvac+fluid+extractor

 

I agree, topside oil changes are the way to go, I happen to have a Schwaben, but any brand will work just get the tube all the way down. You don't even need to wash your hands after you get done the work it is so clean. I also use it to suck the oil of of the old filter and the oil that is in the galleys under the filter on the motor.

 

I just got done doing the first oil change at 5700 miles. Easy piezy and you don't need to spend $ for a vac pump. Remove the belly pan (5 mins) and drain oil. remove engine cover and remove oil filter(5 minutes) and install new Purolator oil filter. The drain plug crush gasket does not need to be changed and does not leak at all when reinstalling. In all a easy job and only costs $27 for oil and $10 for the filter. Both at Wal Mart. Castrol 0W-40 and Purolator oil filter

 

You should stick with the OEM filter, made by Mann or Hengst. You can but at VW dealer or Amazon.
Mann-Filter part number = W 719/45
Hengst part number = H14W30
VW part number = 06J 115 403Q = 06J 115 561B
Make sure the oil you use states on the bottle, that it meets the VW 502 specification.

 

The purolatorfilter is made by the oem. Made in Germany and EXACTLY the same as the oem filter. Get it locally for a fair price. The oil you get from Walmart is the correct oil for a lot less too. Best part is I did the oil change for 1/4 the cost the Audi dealer wants



https://www.castrol.com/en_gb/united-kingdom/car-engine-oil/engine-oil-viscosity/0w-40.html


https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-1&q=purolator+L35895

 

The original VW branded (or Mann or Hengst) filter can be bought for $12 to $13.
I thought I saw a "Made In Mexico" on the Purolator filter.....

 

The original VW branded (or Mann or Hengst) filter can be bought for $12 to $13.
I thought I saw a "Made In Mexico" on the Purolator filter.....

Nope. $10 and made in Germany on the one I have

 

Anyone know if the OEM drain plug that Audi Parts sell directly comes with the crush washer? I don't see the crush washer in any of the part diagrams.

 

Nevermind. Looked at some old service receipts and they show a washer. Part N-013-849-3

 

Easiest way to change your oil and reset your computer is with these two items :

https://www.amazon.com/Carista-Bluetooth-Adapter-iPhone-Android/dp/B00YVHGTBM/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=audi+carista&qid=1585924717&sr=8-1

 

Did a first-time oil change in my 2020 Q3. No crush washer at all - uses a new (to me) plastic drain plug. Made a video on YouTube. I put in just over 5 quarts to refill it.